Frequently Automotive Questions

Commonly Asked Automotive Questions

What are Speed BleedersÆ and how do they work?

Russell's patented new Speed Bleeders are the one-man bleeder valves with a stainless steel one-way check ball and spring. Install them in place of the original bleeder valves, and when it is time to bleed your brakes, simply crack them open 1/2 to 1/4 turn and continuously pump the brakes. The spring-loaded check ball opens to let out the old brake fluid and air, then closes between pumps to prevent the old fluid or air from re-entering the brake system. When new fluid starts coming out the Speed Bleeder, all the old fluid is bled from the system and you close the Speed Bleeder down. There is a patented thread compound on the Speed Bleeder that prevents air from leaking past the threads and also keeps the Speed Bleeder from seizing in the caliper. Sold in pairs, Speed Bleeders are available in both metric and standard sizes to fit most vehicles with hydraulic brakes or clutches.

What makes a brake line "Street LegalÆ" ?

In order to pass the Department of Transportation standard MVSS-106 requirements, brake lines are subjected to what is called a "whip test", where the brakeline is literally whipped back and forth for a specified period of time. When subjected to this abnormal abuse, our Cycleflex lines may begin to fray where the braided stainless steel jacket meets the crimp-on fitting. In order to pass this test, Russell engineers have incorporated a TeflonÆ sleeve along with the crimp-on fitting that distributes the loads of this test over a broader section of hose, thereby preventing the stainless steel braid from fraying. Other than this TeflonÆ sleeve and DOT markings on the hose itself, the pressure ratings, burst strengths and flow capacities are identical between the two styles of brakelines.

What is the difference between DOT3, DOT4, DOT 5 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids?

DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 brake fluids are glycol based compounds that are compatible with one another. DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone based and should never be mixed with DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT5.1. DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 fluids may damage painted surfaces and DOT 3 and DOT 4 have lower boiling temperatures than DOT 5 (DOT 5.1 has the same boiling point as DOT 5). Furthermore, DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 fluids are "hygroscopic", which means they absorb moisture from the air. This causes the fluid to turn dark, indicating that it is time for the brake fluid to be replaced. DOT 5 fluid will not damage paint, has a boiling temperature in excess of 500ƒ F, and is not hygroscopic.

How do I select Russell Performance stainless steel brakelines for my vehicle if there is no catalog listing for my application?

For cars or trucks that we don't have a pre-assembled brakeline kit for, Russell offers our "Universal Brakeline Series". The universal hoses come in different lengths, anywhere from 9" up to 27", with female AN 3 fittings crimped on both ends. These female AN 3 ends then accept our universal adapters, which will connect the hose to the caliper/wheel cylinder and to the hard line. In order to install our universal lines, you must first measure the length of the existing lines and determine the type and dimensions of the hose ends and choose the correct adapters. A knowledgeable parts man is a valuable source for this information if you can not find these specifications yourself.

I've installed Russell stainless steel brakelines on my car, and I can't get the brakes to pump up. What procedures should I be following?

There are a number of different techniques that can be used to bleed the air out of newly installed brakelines. Air is easily compressible, and simply pumping the brake pedal often does not create enough pressure to force the fluid to displace the air. One trick that will save you a lot of time and effort is to prime the new lines before installation. This can be accomplished with a small syringe or an eyedropper. Fill the syringe or eyedropper with the proper brake fluid and force fluid into one end of the line until it starts to come out the other end. It is not necessary to have the brakeline completely filled, as long as the inside of the line has been coated with brake fluid. Install the primed lines and use one of the following techniques to finish bleeding your brakes.

The quickest, easiest and most cost effective way to finish bleeding the primed brakelines is with Russell's patented new Speed BleederÆ, the bleeder valve with a spring-loaded one-way check ball in it. Install the Speed Bleeder in place of the original bleeder, connect a hose onto the Speed Bleeder and place the other end into a catch container. Then you simply crack the Speed Bleeder open 1/4 to 1/2 turn and continuously pump the brakes. When you pump the brake pedal, the pressure forces the check ball off its seat, allowing air or old fluid out. Between pumps, the spring-loaded ball closes to prevent any air or old fluid from getting back into the brake system. When the brakes are thoroughly bled, tighten down the Speed Bleeder and you're all done!

Another quick and easy way to finish bleeding your brakes requires the use of some sort of pressure/vacuum pump. These tools do an excellent job of bleeding the brakes, but tend to be a little bit expensive, especially for a one-time use. If you do have access to one, follow the instructions, and you should have no problem bleeding your brakes.

As a last resort, if you do not have Speed Bleeders or a pressure/vacuum pump, then you will have to follow the procedures outlined in the factory service manual for your vehicle.

If the brakes seem to pump up, but then you lose pedal pressure, this usually indicates that you either have a pressure loss in the system or a defective master cylinder. Check all connections to be sure you properly torqued all the fittings. Clean the lines completely, pump up the brakes again, and inspect the lines for leaking fluid. Baby powder sprayed onto the lines and fittings will help locate the source of the leak. If you find no indication of a leak, then you probably have a master cylinder that is not working properly. Rebuild or replace the master cylinder and you should have no further problems. Due to the safety related nature of bleeding your brakes, if you have a problem that you cannot solve yourself, please take your vehicle to a qualified brake repair shop and let them finish the job.

What types of fuel filters does Russell offer?

Russell has quite a variety of fuel filters to choose from, depending upon your specific needs. Our Street Fuel Filters are attractive high quality fuel filters made from billet aluminum, with a sintered bronze element that can be cleaned or replaced. Three sizes are available to fit fuel lines of 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8" I.D.'s and come in either red, blue or black anodize or chrome plated finishes. The filter body is 1 1/2" long with a 1" O.D. and is designed for carburetor engines making less than 300 horsepower.

Our Clear Flow Fuel Filter is a universal type fuel filter with a clear Pyrex housing that allows you to visually inspect the filter and fuel for contaminants. Three different size adapters are included to connect the filter to 1/4", 5/16" or 3/8" hose I.D.'s. The filter element is nylon mesh that can be cleaned or replaced. The filter body is 2 1/2" long with a 1" O.D. and is designed for carbureted engines making less than 300 horsepower.

Clear Flow Plus Fuel Filters are the same as our Clear Flow Fuel Filters, but with either red or blue anodized end caps that are available with either universal clamp-on fuel line adapters or AN 6 male outlets.

Russell's Competition Fuel Filter is designed with today's high volume fuel systems in mind. Capable of flowing up to 130 gallons per hour (gph), the disc type element filters down to 40 microns and can be cleaned or replaced. Made of billet aluminum, the filter body is available with AN male nipples in either size 6 or size 8, and comes in either traditional red and blue anodize or polished aluminum finishes. The filter body is 1 7/8" long with a 1 1/4" O.D., and is designed for carbureted engines making up to 1,000 horsepower.

The Russell Profilter is engineered to provide full flow filtration with a minimum amount of restriction. Precision machined from billet aluminum, the Profilter end caps are removable for easy access to service the element, which is available in either paper for gasoline or stainless steel for alcohol or fuel additives. The end caps are offered in either AN 8 or AN 10 male outlets, and the mounting bracket is included for easy inline mounting to your frame tube. The filter body is 10" long with a 2" O.D. and can be used on carbureted or fuel injected engines.

And finally, Russell offers our Ultra Flow II Fuel Pressure Regulator/Filter. This two port fuel regulator incorporates a fuel filter with a replaceable aircraft quality element into a unique housing. The precision metering is adjustable from 3 psi to 25 psi with a maximum flow of 140gph. Our Viton o-ring system eliminates fuel pressure creepage and is compatible with fuel additives and alcohol. Inlet and outlet ports are 3/8" NPT for easy adapting to most systems. Available in traditional red and blue anodize or polished aluminum finishes. Overall length is 5 1/2" with a 1 3/4" O.D.

As you can see, Russell provides the versatility to satisfy all of your fuel filter needs!